Last year, I wrote about Daniel Roth, a pioneer in the independent watchmaking movement, who, in my opinion, created some of the most beautiful timepieces ever made. Personally, I first noticed Roth’s early works during the 2020 lockdown, when the extra time at home led me to explore the web. Back then, there was little information available on Daniel Roth, and it was hard to distinguish his original masterpieces from the lower-quality pieces produced after the company was taken over. Aside from a few Italian articles I painstakingly translated, it was challenging to find resources. Yet, once I discovered the distinction between his original era and the later pieces, I was instantly captivated.
Roth’s core offerings during his original run included the chronograph, retrograde, perpetual calendar, self-winding ultrathin, manual-wind midsize, and, of course, the tourbillon. Despite their incredibly low production numbers, these watches were surprisingly easy to find on Chrono24. I quickly snapped up a few with some trepidation, unsure of what to expect. But two weeks later, when a retrograde and tourbillon arrived in my mailbox, I knew instantly that these watches were something special.
My instincts were right. What was once overlooked and forgotten has now emerged as one of the hottest neo-vintage brands. Over time, collectors began to realise that Roth’s early pieces were entirely different from the more common later editions. I believe this growing appreciation and enthusiasm among collectors laid the groundwork for what we see today: the revival of Daniel Roth, marked by the reintroduction of the Tourbillon, Roth’s first masterpiece from 35 years ago.
With LVMH—owners of Bulgari—holding the rights to the Roth name, they decided to revive the brand. While Daniel Roth himself is no longer involved, he appears to support the concept. It’s heartening to see the return of his name, even if only as a tribute.
The new rose gold 5N Tourbillon Souscription will be produced in a limited edition of just 20 pieces, staying faithful to the original in terms of dimensions, dial design, and overall aesthetic. The signature double ellipse case returns, but this time with a champagne dial, as opposed to the grey-gold dial of previous models. Interestingly, the earliest Roth pieces featured a Clous de Paris Guilloche pattern before he transitioned to his signature ‘ligne’ Guilloche. Seeing this detail on the new release is a delightful nod to his early work. Crafted by Voutilainen’s workshop, the Guilloche is exceptionally defined, and I imagine it looks even more impressive in person.
Although the watch closely resembles the original, the movement is entirely new, replacing the Lemania-based calibre with the DR001, produced by La Fabrique du Temps—famous for their work with Laurent Ferrier. This signals a serious commitment to the brand’s revival. However, I must note that the new model has a solid case back, whereas the original featured a double-sided design showcasing the date and power reserve. Although Roth did produce single-sided examples in the past, I can’t help but feel slightly disappointed, as I’m a big fan of the double-sided design.
There’s been plenty of discussion about the revival, with some labelling it a lazy recreation of the original, criticizing its high price point, and lamenting the new font, which some say doesn’t live up to the original. While I’m still undecided, I must admit that, like last year’s yellow-gold release, this piece looks fantastic. The combination of a pink champagne dial and rose-gold case is stunning, and I believe this is just the beginning for the revived brand.
At CHF 140,000, the price needs to be seen in the context of the proprietary tourbillon movement and the fact that even in the 1990s, Daniel Roth’s pieces were priced at CHF 120,000. As for the font, it strikes me as idiosyncratic. I’m torn between appreciating its quirkiness and wondering whether it falls victim to being toned-down that has affected so many design fields recently.
The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription is priced at CHF155,000. For more information on this new piece, visit danielroth.com.
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