A few of years ago, Tudor introduced arguably their best vintage inspired watch in the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. While 2018 was the year of the GMT and the watch people couldn’t stop talking about, the BB58 was a nod to the past but done with Tudor panache. Of course, over the past few years we’ve seen the emergence of vintage inspired watches but only a handful of brands are even capable of pulling this feat off. That said, I’m sure this is something that Rolex would like to participate in but fortunately for them they have a sister brand that can indulge in these nostalgic exercises – plus, let’s be honest, Rolex don’t do trends, even if they do have quite the back catalogue.
Previous Black Bay models have maintained the link to previous Tudor diving watches with nice little historical nods through visual elements but perhaps the biggest differentiator has always been the size of the cases, sized at a very modern 41mm. This new Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is aptly named after the year in which the first Tudor divers’ watch, waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced.
What’s more, among other aesthetic illusions to the historic watch, this model has been endowed with a 39 mm case, in-keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. But more interestingly the case has been fashioned out of 925 silver, a first for the brand. The composition of this particular alloy is something that brand is keeping a bit of a secret. Silver has a tendency to tarnish but the alloy has been created in manner that negates this flaw. Furthering the preservation of 925 silver case, Tudor have satin finished every surface of the BB58 925, which gives it a more military appearance.
The Black Bay 58 925 makes use of a new calibre, which for the first time is visible through the exhibition case back. With its 30.3 mm diameter, the Calibre MT5400 displays hour, minute and second functions and has been designed for medium-sized Tudor watches. And, is certified as a chronometer (COSC), with a 70-hour power reserve.
The dial on the BB58 925 is well executed and incorporates an all taupe dial with finishing touches of text in silver, as well as minute track – evoking a unmistakable tropical appearance. Tudor have also gone further by using inlaid hour markers with Super-Luminova which Tudor have taken the liberty to not add any faux-patina. The snowflake hands also make use of the same material.
Like the rest of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925, the bezel has been well executed too. The taupe “coin edge” bezel creates the perfect backdrop to the silver scale, with a silver triangle at 12 o’clock with a pearl that has also contains Super-Luminova. Adding to the overall vintage inspired look too is the “Large Crown”, though this is more finely fluted and features a Tudor rose. Unlike previous iterations of the BB58, the 925 is fixed to the wrist via a brown grained leather strap or Tudor’s taupe fabric band with a 925 silver pin buckle.
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is priced at £3,230 on either the leather or fabric strap. For more information on visit the official Tudor website.
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