While 2021 hasn’t been as turbulent as 2020, there have still been some difficulties logistically and travel-wise but now that things are slowly but surely getting back to a “new” normal we took some time out to visit the wonderful people at 30 Berkeley Sq. We’ve covered many PHILLPS watch auctions in the past and as you’ll likely know, the Geneva auctions take place twice a year, one in May and the other in November. Unfortunately for us, the May auction highlights didn’t reach these shores but that didn’t stop us from highlighting our favourite lots. As for the November auction, a couple of weeks ago, we had the opportunity to get up close and personal with some of the watches from Geneve Watch Auction XIV and so in typical fashion, we thought we’d share some of our favourite lots.
ROLEX DAY-DATE
Lot 52: The Day-Date is without doubt one of Rolex most diverse wristwatches and has been nicknamed The Presidential Rolex, quite simply because it has been donned by various Presidents throughout the decades. Made from either yellow, white or pink gold – the Day-Date has been a cornerstone of Rolex catalogues for over 60-years (you can see our little write-up on the 60th anniversary piece right here).
This rather interesting 1975 Day-Date doesn’t really have a reference and neither does it have a nickname to go by – you could almost say it is something of a unicorn… It features a silver sunburst dial with black Roman numeral hour markers and black inlaid luminous hour, minute, and seconds hands. What I’ve just mentioned doesn’t sound too special and to the uninitiated this Day-Date may seem rather unimpressive and even perhaps a bit boring, however, it is anything but.
Everyone knows that Rolex never put steel Day-Date’s into production but occasionally, there are exceptions, and this example represents just this. It just so happens that you are looking at a one of 4 extremely rare prototype pieces to have been made in stainless steel. One example (movement no. 0004547) has been noted in John Goldberger’s Rolex “bible” 1000 Superlative Rolex Watches and two more were sold by Phillips in 2018 (no. 0005073) and in 2019 (no. DD411420). This fourth example (no. DD14749) is said to have been previously unknown to the market and it completes the set of the known steel Day-Date’s. All these four prototype examples were originally gifted to Rolex’s watchmakers at the end of their career, and they all have the same Roman numerals dial style. Moreover, as these are prototypes, they bear no serial number or reference.
I think it is insane that these 4 watches not only exist but that they were even allowed to leave the Rolex factory. This steel Day-Date completely contradicts the company’s own rules when it comes to Day-Date’s yet it’s rather refreshing. This steel Day-Date is one of the rarest we’ve had the pleasure to see in the metal and quite simply put, one of the most important.
Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 100,000
ROLEX DAYTONA REF. 16568
Lot 108: The Rolex Daytona is an iconic watch and as such commands a premium. In the world of Daytona collecting there is of course subcategories, there’s the pump-pusher era, the oyster none crown guard era and there is of course the Zenith era (those fitted with automatic chronograph movements also used in the El Primero). That said, not so long ago collecting these automatic pieces wasn’t so common, however, fast-forward to today and these late 80s to early 90s Daytona’s are as much sought-after as those mid-twentieth century examples. That said, this piece is a little different and it is these differences that make the Zenith-Daytona rather special in my humble opinion.
Gem-set Daytona’s are nothing new, examples of these kind of piece were seen in the early part of the 80s in the form of the reference 6269 and 6270 – produced in very small numbers. It would appear these early pieces were just a prelude to what Rolex would bring to the next generation of Daytonas. The Zenith era saw the 4030 calibre housed chronographs feature some of the most beautiful gem-set Cosmograph Daytonas to date.
This mid-90s reference 16568 features a diamond pavé dial with emerald-set markers, in lieu of numerals, which is not only one rarest gems found on a Daytona but more importantly adds a distinguished appearance to the dial. Furthermore, the bezel features 24 large baguette-cut diamonds, which adds more versatility to its overall look and feel. The 18-carat yellow-gold case of this Daytona further enhances the gems used on this piece, providing even more character.
This ref. 16568 Daytona comes with all its original paperwork, as well as service history. The paperwork provided and it serial numbers places its production to around 1995. However, it is accompanied with a calendar card that marked 1997/98 – meaning it was at Rolex for around 2-years before being shipped. That said, once it was at the retailer it took a further 5-years before it was sold. It’s insane to think that nearly two decades ago this Daytona took nearly 5 years to sell and today it is considered to be the pinnacle of chronograph gem-setting. Zenith-Daytonas are finally having their time in the limelight.
Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 180,000
VACHERON CONSTANTIN REF. 4178
Lot 168:It doesn’t happen often but every now and then a stunning Vacheron Constantin ref. 4178 Chronograph, in immaculate condition I may add, comes up for sale. We’ve featured a reference 4178 here on before – but this stainless-steel example is just jaw droppingly good. As you may well be aware, Vacheron are no strangers to fine gentlemen’s chronograph wristwatches, and it is very evident when you look at their long list of chronographs that were first introduced in the early part of the 20th century. Just like Patek, and Audemars to some extent, Vacheron produced some remarkable and iconic pieces during this era, such as the monopusher chronograph ref. 3466, the very popular and rare ref. 4072 that was made in considerable small quantities and the ref. 6087 that sported the unmistakable cow horn lugs and featured an anti-magnetic and water-resistant case. The ref. 4177 and of course this, the iconic VC chronograph model that is the ref. 4178 – considered by many as one of the most beautiful chronographs ever made and in my humble opinion, I find it hard to disagree.
There are quite a few dial variations of the Vacheron ref. 4178 that were made but for me, I think the two-tone dial are among the best. Furthermore, when it has a dial that makes use of a pulsation scale, well, it’s in a class of its own. This ref. 4178 features a beautiful two-tone salmon-tone dial, with a combination of applied Arabic numerals and dot markers. The black enamel markings are extremely well-preserved and would’ve been formed using a technique known as champlevé that offers a clean, elegant appearance. It of course sports the customary blued chronograph seconds and subsidiary dial hands, which on this dial appear more prominent. But arguably the best part about this dial, is its condition. It appears to be in an original and unmolested state, which is seldom seen. And the case, with its tear drop lugs, is in as equally good condition too.
Interestingly, the Vacheron 4178 spanned a production run from 1940 to 1964, and in true mid-century fashion, there were various pieces made in yellow-gold, rose-gold and stainless steel (including bi-metal too) and just like the steel chronographs produced by Patek or AP during these years, steel Vacheron chronographs are just as rare, if not, even more so. Inside this 1947 ref. 4178 is the 19 jewelled calibre 434 13’” (base ebauche Valjoux 22). The three-piece stainless-steel case measures 36mm and of course features the elaborate sculpted tear-drop lugs and stepped snap-case back. Vacheron didn’t make many steel chronographs, with the calibre 434, in fact they didn’t make many reference 4178s in steel – so this piece represents something rather special.
Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 200,000
ROLEX DAYTONA REF. 6265 “DESERT EAGLE”
Lot 244: Most, if not all, of us are by now familiar with the Rolex Daytona but even till this day, when tasked to think about the quintessential sports chronograph of the last 5 decades, few will come to mind, but none are more iconic than the Rolex Daytona. As you know, the Daytona was introduced as a motorsport racing wristwatch, with earlier examples exhibiting pump push pieces but Rolex had always wanted to remain true to form and so introduced the 624o: their first Daytona to incorporate screw-down chronograph push pieces. The 6240 was quickly superseded by the 6263 & 6265, which were introduced circa 1969.
This 1975 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the layperson, may just look like another Daytona – until you look closer to not only discover it is void of the brand on the dial but also doesn’t display the words “Daytona” or even “Cosmograph” for that matter. Now, it is no secret that Rolex have been one of the favoured watch brands by Sheiks, army officials and dignitaries alike in the Middle East. It is no surprise that Rolex watches during the 1970s were one of the gifts of choice and because of this, Rolex were quite used to receiving special orders for dials that featured coats of arms, or names of members of the royal family.
Perhaps the rarest of these specially requested pieces is this 6265, which features a custom dial that bears the UAE Quraysh Hawk. Made upon special request for Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Emir of Dubai in the mid-1970s. It is known that these watches were part of an order, which consisted of a few dozen examples. Examples that are known and fitted with the same dial configuration – all bear a serial number close in sequence.
The dial on this example is in immaculate condition and its polychrome relief printing of the UAE emblem with Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum signature, sits proud of place at 12 o’clock – almost as if it is wearing the crown. Below the centre axis at 6 o’clock is the signature of Wazarah Ad Difa’A department, written in Abrabic script. Furthermore, you’ll notice the dial features its period correct Sigma markings, which flank the T-Swiss-T inscription – denoting the white gold markers. You’ll also notice the lume plots have aged to a nice warm creamy tone.
The case also appears to be in excellent condition, featuring its original screw-down pushers and steel bezel insert – as well as a period correct oyster bracelet. This lot is not only attractive but rare too, which clearly places it among the most impressive Cosmograph Daytonas that we’ve featured here.
Estimate: CHF 200,000 – 300,000
FINAL WORD
So, there you have it, a handful of our favourite lots from the Geneva Watch Auction XIV. Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo seem to continue to bring rare pieces to the market even in this current climate. I think this particular auction possesses those super rare pieces we are perhaps accustomed to seeing – such as the Vacheron Constantin ref. 4178 and 6265 Desert Eagle we’ve highlighted. Nonetheless, there are still a few sleepers, which we haven’t highlighted in there which may surprise a few of us, so we will happily be watching to see how well these lots will perform too.
For more lot information on The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIV that will take place on the weekend of the 5th & 7th of November at La Reserve Hotel, Geneva, visit the official Phillips Watches website to view the entire catalogue.
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