In 2021, amidst a world in lockdown, Tudor defied expectations by unveiling a remarkable addition to its lineup: the Black Bay 58 in gleaming 18-carat yellow gold. While the initial release lacked a matching metal bracelet, the supplied green fabric strap, a signature of Tudor’s craftsmanship, exuded its own charm. However, the absence of a complementary bracelet left enthusiasts anticipating more. Recently, at Watches & Wonders, Tudor astounded again by presenting the 18-carat yellow gold BB58, now accompanied by a matching bracelet.
Throughout its history, Tudor’s Black Bay models have paid homage to its diving watch heritage, often incorporating subtle nods to the past alongside contemporary features. Notably, the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K, named after the year of Tudor’s inaugural waterproof diver, the “Big Crown” reference 7924, stands out with its 41mm case. However, the true innovation lies in its 18K gold construction, a departure from Tudor’s traditional affordability ethos.
Originally conceived as an accessible alternative to Rolex, Tudor historically utilized non-in-house movements to manage costs. Yet, the modern Black Bay series now boasts an in-house calibre, marking a significant shift towards proprietary movements. The latest iteration, featuring an in-house calibre METAS-tested for precision, holds promise for enthusiasts seeking top-tier performance.
In a nod to vintage aesthetics, the BB58 18K sports a modest 39mm case, reminiscent of 1950s proportions, crafted entirely from 18-carat yellow gold—a first for Tudor. Despite its opulent material, the satin-finished case exudes a subdued elegance, blending luxury with understatement.
The calibre MT5400, visible through the exhibition case back, powers the BB58 18K, showcasing hour, minute, and second functions. Certified as a chronometer with a 70-hour power reserve, this movement embodies Tudor’s commitment to precision and reliability.
The dial of the BB58 18K features a striking all-green palette accented with gold text and minute track, exuding refined sophistication. Further enhancing its allure, 18-carat yellow gold inlaid hour markers with Super-Luminova and “Snowflake” hands elevate both style and visibility.
In line with the vintage-inspired design, the bezel of the BB58 18K boasts a green “coin edge” finish juxtaposed with a gold scale and triangle at 12 o’clock, all enhanced with Super-Luminova for optimal legibility. Departing from faux-riveted bracelets of previous models, the 18-carat yellow gold variant showcases a modern solid oyster-style bracelet, seamlessly satin-brushed to complement the case—a testament to Tudor’s evolving design ethos.
FLEETING THOUGHTS
As avid followers of our content may recall, I’ve been a proud owner of the original BB58 since its debut in 2018. While this latest offering from Tudor diverges from the traditional path of its predecessors, it introduces a captivating deviation. The inaugural Black Bay Fifty-Eight paid homage to the iconic 1958 Tudor Submariner “Big Crown” 7924. However, the BB58 18K boldly departs from this homage, embracing a distinctively audacious combination of gold and green. It’s this fearless departure that truly captivates me and ignites my admiration for this timepiece.
The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is priced at £27,610 on a matching metal bracelet. For more information on visit tudorwatch.com.
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