A couple of years ago, I wrote about Daniel Roth, a pioneer of independent watchmaking who, in my opinion, created some of the most beautiful timepieces ever made. I first came across Roth’s early works during the 2020 lockdown, when extra time at home led me to explore the web. Information on Roth back then was scarce, and it was difficult to distinguish his original masterpieces from the lower-quality pieces produced after the company changed hands. Translating a handful of Italian articles was a laborious task, but once I understood the difference between Roth’s original creations and the later versions, I was captivated.
During his original run, Roth’s offerings included the chronograph, retrograde, perpetual calendar, self-winding ultrathin, manual-wind midsize, and the iconic tourbillon. Despite their low production numbers, these watches were surprisingly easy to find on Chrono24 at the time. I nervously purchased a few and, two weeks later, when a retrograde and a tourbillon arrived, I instantly knew these were something special.
My instincts proved correct. What was once overlooked and forgotten has become one of the most sought-after neo-vintage brands. Over time, collectors have recognised the uniqueness of Roth’s early work compared to the more common, later editions. This growing appreciation culminated in the 2023 revival of Daniel Roth, marked by the reintroduction of his first masterpiece, the Tourbillon from 35 years ago. This week, however, the brand unveiled something simpler but no less extraordinary.
Now under the ownership of LVMH, which also owns Bulgari, the Daniel Roth name has been revived. Although Roth himself is no longer directly involved, he seems to support the endeavour, and it’s heartening to see his legacy honoured in this way.
The latest release, the Extra Plat Souscription, pays homage to Roth’s roots and echoes the style and craftsmanship of the original reference 2107 from the 1990s. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription is presented in an 18k yellow-gold case with an 18k yellow-gold dial, adorned with a hand-made clous de Paris guilloché pattern crafted by Voutilainen’s workshop. The guilloché is exceptionally detailed, and I imagine it looks even more striking in person.
The watch shares the same dimensions as the Tourbillon Souscription: a case measuring 35.5mm wide by 38.6mm long, but it features a much slimmer profile at just 7.7mm thick, thanks to the ultra-thin calibre DR002. While faithful to the original design, the case has been subtly reworked. It retains the signature double ellipse form with a perfectly centred godron along its outline, offering a balanced profile. The lugs have also been gently rounded and arched downwards for added elegance.
Though visually similar to the original, the movement is entirely new. The DR002, produced by La Fabrique du Temps — known for its work with Laurent Ferrier — replaces the Frederic Piguet-based calibre. This marks the second movement developed by La Fabrique du Temps for Daniel Roth, a testament to their dedication to the brand’s revival. The DR002 maintains the distinctive aesthetic of the DR001 from the Tourbillon Souscription but was designed specifically for the Extra Plat Souscription.
The revival has sparked debate, with some critics dismissing it as a lazy recreation of the original, questioning its high price point, and criticising the new font for lacking the charm of the original. While I’m still forming my opinion, I must admit this piece, like last year’s pink-gold release, looks fantastic. The combination of the yellow-gold dial and case is stunning, and I believe there’s much more to come from this revival.
Priced at CHF 45,000, the cost reflects the proprietary movement and the exclusivity of the piece, limited to just 20 units worldwide. Considering that even in the 1990s, Roth’s original works were priced in the five-figure range, this seems fitting for a watch of such pedigree.
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