In 1997, the Aquanaut made its debut and was initially considered an oddity. It was Patek Philippe’s attempt at creating a sports watch aimed at a younger audience, a concept that seemed unconventional at the time. However, 27 years later, the Aquanaut has become one of Patek Philippe’s more popular models, though to some it’s still seen as an entry-level piece within their collection. In 2011, Patek introduced the Aquanaut Travel Time in stainless steel, arguably making it one of the best all-around tool watches the brand had produced to date. In 2016, they followed with the Aquanaut Travel in rose gold. For 2024, Patek has unveiled the 5164 model in white gold, featuring this year’s theme of denim blue tones.
The new white-gold Aquanaut Travel Time 5164 retains the same 40.8mm diameter as its predecessors. While not exactly petite by Patek Philippe’s standards, it fits snugly on the wrist, secured by a blue-grey rubber strap, a nod to its sports watch identity.
The dial layout of the Aquanaut Travel Time remains consistent with previous versions, with numerals extending from 8 o’clock to 4 o’clock. At first glance, the dial may seem busy, but upon closer inspection, it reveals a well-organized design. At 6 o’clock, there’s a subsidiary dial date track, and just below 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, apertures display local and home time, respectively, with day/night indicators—a common feature in modern Travel Time models from Patek. The second time zone is indicated by a skeletonized hour hand, which hides beneath the primary hour hand when not in use. The two push pieces, resembling crown guards on the opposite side of the crown, function as time zone correctors, allowing frequent travellers to adjust the skeletonized hour hand forwards or backwards.
At the heart of the 5164G is the calibre 26-330 S C FUS, offering a 45-hour power reserve. The “FUS” device, patented by Patek in 1959, enables bi-directional adjustments of local time in one-hour increments. This mechanism is isolated from the going train during time-zone changes, preventing damage to the balance and ensuring the accuracy of the timepiece. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back, showcasing a 21K gold automatic rotor. Impressively, the movement measures just 4.82mm, despite consisting of 290 components—four fewer than the previous calibre 324 SC FUS used in earlier Aquanaut Travel Time models.
It’s rare for a watch initially met with scepticism to evolve into a highly regarded sports watch. The Aquanaut not only looks the part but is versatile enough to suit both casual and formal attire, with the added functionality of tracking a second time zone. It could be considered the ultimate choice for a “one watch” person—albeit one with deeper pockets than the average enthusiast.
The new 18-carat white gold Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164G-001 is priced at £54,000 For more information visit patek.com.
