The Patek Philippe Ellipse may not be the centrepiece of Patek collectors’ discussions, yet it has remained a staple in the collection since 1968. Despite this, the Ellipse has always been a must-have among dress watch enthusiasts. With modern trends favouring smaller dress watches, the release of this new Ellipse seems perfectly timed.
Since its debut in 1968, the Ellipse has undergone numerous iterations. Initially, it was an elegant 27x32mm yellow-gold dress watch with a blue-gold dial on a mesh bracelet. Over the years, it evolved into an elliptical mainstay, growing larger and incorporating a leather strap, with cases crafted from various metals and vibrant dials that captured attention. For its 40th anniversary in 2008, Patek introduced a jumbo Platinum model with a blue soleil dial. In 2018, a jumbo rose-gold model with a sunburst black dial was added, and for its 50th anniversary, Patek presented a white-gold jumbo model with a hand-engraved black enamel dial—arguably my favourite Ellipse until now.
The new 5738/1R features a 34.5mm x 39.5mm case, a harmoniously proportioned design inspired by the famous Golden Ratio, made entirely of rose gold, with a rose gold crown set with a black onyx cabochon. At just 5.9mm thick, it is the slimmest watch in the Patek collection, offering a sleek look on the wrist. The dial, though perhaps not as captivating as the 50th-anniversary edition, maintains an elegant simplicity. It features an ebony black soleil dial with rose gold applied baton-style hour markers on an 18ct gold dial plate, complemented by slim cheveu-type hands.
A dress watch like the Patek Ellipse can easily be compromised by a subpar bracelet, an issue seen with other brands. However, Patek has excelled with a new chain-style link bracelet for this model. The bracelet comprises 363 elements, including 300 individual links woven together by hand. It is secured with a fold-over clasp engraved with the chain-style pattern and the Patek Philippe cross emblem, offering three adjustable positions. This exquisite bracelet enhances the sophistication of the Ellipse, sometimes overlooked.
Technically speaking, the 5738/1R is an elegant timepiece powered by a modest mechanical movement, the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240. The solid case is water-resistant to 30 meters, ensuring durability alongside its refined aesthetics.
This new Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/1R-001 is priced at £51,470. For more information visit patek.com
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