The rise of smartphones has led some to argue that watches, particularly mechanical ones, are obsolete and unnecessary in daily life. However, I firmly believe there is one watch complication that remains relevant and discreet: the GMT or dual time zone wristwatch. A wristwatch displaying two time zones is far quicker to read than a smartphone. With just a flick of the wrist, you can instantly see the time at home while traveling. In contrast, checking your phone requires pulling it out, unlocking it, and navigating to the international time section. This convenience is why I regard the Rolex GMT-Master as one of the finest watches still in production.
In 2018, Rolex significantly revamped their GMT line, introducing three new models. The stainless-steel GMT-Master with the iconic ‘Pepsi’ Cerachrom bezel garnered the most attention. Additionally, the collection includes a full yellow-gold model and a steel and yellow-gold variant, both refreshed in 2023. This year, Rolex reintroduced the monochrome GMT with a unique twist.
The GMT Master line has featured several iterations of its two-tone Cerachrom bezel, starting with the blue and black ‘Batman’ model. Following that, Rolex released the blue and red ‘Pepsi’ version, initially in a white gold case, which many enthusiasts desired in stainless steel. Rolex later resolved this. The third iteration, known as ‘Rootbeer,’ featured a black and brown bezel. Notably, Rolex also ventured into a left-handed GMT with a black and green ‘Sprite’ bezel, a personal favourite of mine.
The new steel GMT-Master II sports a two-tone bezel introduced last year. Initially, it might appear entirely black, but closer inspection reveals a subtle black and grey combination. This backdrop enhances the bright silver GMT scale, with the contrast varying significantly based on the light source. The watch features a 40mm case crafted entirely from Oystersteel (904L). The only difference between this new model and the existing steel models is the hint of green used on the dial and GMT hand.
This new GMT is available with either an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, both of which complement the watch perfectly and provide options. The bracelet includes polished centre links and brushed outer links, offering a striking contrast. It also features Rolex’s Easylink function, allowing up to 5mm of easy adjustment.
Inside the GMT-Master II is the in-house developed and manufactured 3285 calibre movement. This new-generation, self-winding mechanical movement, with over 10 patent applications, exemplifies Rolex’s pursuit of perfection. The calibre 3285 delivers significant improvements in precision, power reserve, shock and magnetic resistance, and overall reliability. It incorporates the Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with dependability. Made from nickel-phosphorus, this escapement is resistant to magnetic interference. The new barrel architecture and super-efficient escapement extend the power reserve to approximately 70 hours. Compliant with Rolex’s ‘Superlative Chronometer’ standard, the calibre 3285 boasts a deviation of just +/- 2 seconds per day.
The new Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710GRNR has a list price £9,350 including VAT. For more information, visit rolex.com.
You might also like
