The simple time-only Rolex is usually reserved for the Oyster Perpetual line. However, last year, Rolex decided it was time to introduce a more high-end time-only timepiece, resurrecting a design from the archives. Among enthusiasts, Rolex is well-known for their early bubble-back watches, which served as the design inspiration for the new Perpetual 1908 line. This new model line, introduced in either 18-carat yellow or white gold, with an option of a black or silver dial, consists of four watches. It sits alongside the professional models as the dressier cousin, replacing the Cellini line. The Perpetual 1908 was named in homage to the year Hans Wilsdorf devised the name ‘Rolex’ and registered the brand in Switzerland. For 2024, Rolex introduced the 1908 in platinum.
Inspired by one of the first Rolex watches fitted with the Perpetual rotor, the 1908 is the inaugural member of the Perpetual collection. This collection is a reinterpretation of traditional watchmaking style: simple and elegant. The 1908 is defined by its minimalist design, drawing cues from a model made in 1931. This elegant and understated watch features a slim 39mm case in platinum, crowned with a bezel that is part domed and part finely fluted. The case is fitted with a transparent back, allowing the wearer to admire the technical sophistication and decoration of the movement.
The curve of the lugs is highlighted by gentle chamfering on their top edges. The bezel is divided into an elegant fluted lower part and a domed upper part. Made of virtually scratchproof sapphire, the domed crystal and transparent case back benefit from an anti-reflective coating. Guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 50 meters (165 feet), the case provides optimal protection for the movement inside.
Like all platinum Rolex models, the dial is particularly sleek. It features an ice blue rice-grain motif guilloché dial, adorned with Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12, and faceted index hour markers. The minute track is bordered on either side by a filet sauté with a crimped pattern. A small-seconds sub-dial is positioned at 6 o’clock, with the words ‘Superlative Chronometer’ above it in an arc shape. The hour hand is distinctive with a circle just before the tip, while the minute hand is shaped like a two-edged sword. The model comes with a brown or black alligator leather strap, equipped with a Dual-clasp, a double folding clasp.
The 1908 is equipped with calibre 7140, incorporating the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement also includes the patented Syloxi hairspring, produced by Rolex. This silicon hairspring has a patented geometry that ensures the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, designed by Rolex, which increase the movement’s shock resistance. The oscillating weight is fashioned in 18ct yellow gold and cut out, and it is fitted with an optimized ball bearing. The calibre 7140 has been meticulously finished, notably on the bridges, which feature Rolex Côtes de Genève—a decoration that differs from traditional Côtes de Genève with a slight polished groove between each band. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the efficiency of the escapement, the power reserve of calibre 7140 extends to approximately 66 hours.
The new platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 is priced at £26,600. For more information on the Perpetual 1908, visit rolex.com.
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