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The Stainless Steel Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

February 13, 2025

In the 1970s, having a sports watch with an integrated bracelet was all the rage. A precious metal sports watch that not only looked the part but also functioned as a reliable tool watch was essential—despite the apparent contradiction. The Royal Oak, designed by Gérald Genta, was Audemars Piguet’s answer to this conundrum. Patek Philippe followed suit with the Nautilus, also designed by Genta, while Vacheron Constantin introduced the ‘222’ to mark its 222nd anniversary. Designed by a young Jorg Hysek, the 222 would later evolve into the Overseas through the 333 and Phidias collections. A few years ago, Vacheron re-released the 222 in solid 18ct yellow gold, which was well received, though enthusiasts continued to hope for a stainless-steel version.

Now, as part of its 270th-anniversary celebrations and in response to client expectations, Vacheron Constantin presents the Historiques 222 in stainless steel. This model pays homage to the legendary original, first introduced in 1977. Designed by Hysek, the 222 broke away from traditional sports watch conventions, which had primarily catered to pilots, divers, and explorers. Instead, it captured the emerging cultural shift that blended formality with sportiness. The 222’s bold 1970s aesthetic introduced a new stylistic signature to the Maison, setting it apart from other luxury sports watches of the era.

The original Vacheron Constantin 222 featured an integrated bracelet and a monobloc case with a functional construction. It had a flat top, a distinctive fluted bezel, and a Maltese cross positioned at 5 o’clock. Its screw-down bezel allowed for water resistance up to 120 meters, while its ultra-thin Calibre 1120 movement—measuring just 3.05 mm—made it the world’s thinnest full-rotor automatic movement at the time. With a total case thickness of just 7 mm, the 222 balanced visual elegance with robust, modern design elements such as simple baton-style hands, hour markers, and a hexagonal-link bracelet.

The latest re-edition of the 222, often referred to as the ‘Jumbo’ by collectors, now features a blue dial housed within a 37 mm stainless steel case. Several technical improvements enhance this modern iteration. The bracelet’s joints have been redesigned to conceal visible pins, and the triple-blade clasp offers improved ergonomics. The date window has been repositioned slightly inward to prevent overlap with the minute track. Additionally, the vintage-style font used for the “AUTOMATIC” inscription, along with the Super-LumiNova coating on the hands and hour markers—off-white by day and lime green by night—pay tribute to the original tritium hue found in historical models.

The original 222 was powered by the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 1120, developed in 1967 as the Calibre 920 for exclusive use by Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Interestingly, Jaeger-LeCoultre itself never used this movement. This same ebauche was employed by the “Big Three” (Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin) in their iconic leisure/sports watch models of the 1970s.

The new steel 222 introduces a sapphire crystal caseback, revealing the in-house Calibre 2455/2. Slightly smaller in diameter than its predecessor, this movement maintains a slim profile at just 3.6 mm thick. The oscillating weight is engraved with the original 222 logo and features a fluted motif reminiscent of the bezel. With a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour), compared to the original’s 2.75 Hz, the movement offers enhanced precision and a 40-hour power reserve.

With its meticulous attention to detail, refined finishing, and technical enhancements, the stainless steel Historiques 222 reaffirms Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to blending heritage with modernity. It successfully pays tribute to the past while catering to contemporary watch enthusiasts, making it a fitting centerpiece for the brand’s 270th-anniversary celebrations.

Aesthetically this new Historiques 222 ticks all the right boxes if you are looking for a tool watch that can be dressed up or down. Like all models in Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques collection, the 222 represents a pivotal moment in the Maison’s history. The 2025 stainless steel re-edition preserves the distinctive design and nostalgic charm of the original while embracing a contemporary spirit. With sophisticated refinement, effortless elegance, and an unwavering dedication to excellence, it perfectly embodies the Maison’s core values. That said, is it the piece everyone was expecting this year, perhaps not, however, it is nice to Vacheron surprise us every now and then.

This new stainless-steel Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 ref. 4200H/222A-B934 is priced at £30,800. For more information visit vacheron-constantin.com.

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Christopher Beccan

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