Having a sports watch with an integrated bracelet was all the rage back in the 1970s. Owning a precious metal sports watch that not only boasted an elegant appearance but also functioned as a robust tool watch, ready to endure any challenge, was considered essential – even if it seemed somewhat contradictory. The Royal Oak, conceived by the visionary Gerald Genta, emerged as Audemars Piguet’s solution to this dilemma. Patek Philippe introduced their own rendition with the Nautilus (also designed by Genta), while Vacheron Constantin unveiled their offering, initially dubbed the ‘222’ to commemorate the brand’s 222nd anniversary, crafted by the talented Jorg Hysek. This timepiece would later evolve into the Overseas line through the 333 and Phidias models. Today, Vacheron Constantin is unveiling the new pink-gold Overseas Automatic 4500V, featuring a sleek, time-only design.
The Overseas has always epitomized a timepiece designed not solely for sports but also for casual or leisure wear. While sports watches are typically tailored for athletic pursuits, the Overseas transcends these boundaries, serving as a versatile wrist companion suitable for both active and relaxed environments. Initially drawn to the 222, it wasn’t until 2016 that I truly appreciated the elegance of the Overseas. With its redesigned aesthetics, fluid contours, and refined finishes, the new model exudes a timeless yet distinctly modern appeal.
The case boasts a hexagonal bezel and a fluted crown adorned with grooves reminiscent of Maison’s design language. The dial, protected by a sapphire crystal glare-proofed on both sides, introduces a vibrant green hue, departing from the classic colour palette of the Overseas. Translucent lacquer coats the dial’s centre, creating a sense of depth against the green sunburst satin brushing, while the flange receives a luxurious velvet finish. Turning the timepiece over, the screw-down case back reveals a 22K gold oscillating weight embellished with a wind rose motif, symbolizing cardinal points for travellers, and featuring sandblasted, polished, and finely grained textures.
The integration of an interchangeable bracelet pays homage to the casual sports wristwatches of the 1970s. Recognizing wearers’ desire for versatility, Vacheron Constantin offers versions of the Overseas with leather and rubber straps. This concept has been further refined in the new Overseas model, which includes three easily interchangeable bracelets: solid pink-gold, leather, and utilitarian rubber. An ingenious mechanism facilitates the swapping of bracelets and straps, eliminating the need for tools. This feature, while innovative, retains a sense of sophistication that is quintessentially Vacheron Constantin.
The original 222 housed the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 1120, initially developed as the calibre 920 in 1967 for joint use by Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Interestingly, Jaeger-LeCoultre never utilized this movement themselves. Ironically, the prominent trio—Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin—utilized this ebauche for their leisure and sports wristwatches launched in the 1970s. The new Overseas utilizes the Calibre 5100, meticulously crafted and developed by Vacheron Constantin to meet the prestigious Poinçon de Genève standards. However, the Ultra-Thin variation still employs the tried-and-tested calibre 1120. With twin barrels, the Overseas Calibre 5100 boasts a 60-hour power reserve.
Aesthetically, the new pink-gold Overseas with green dial is a perfect match and meets all expectations for a versatile tool watch that seamlessly transitions between casual and formal settings. With an array of variations available, there’s something to suit every preference. However, the standout feature of the Overseas 4500V is undoubtedly its green dial with matching hue interchangeable strap system. Despite its 41mm case size, which may sound imposing, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist, largely due to the ergonomic design of the bracelet.
This new 18-carat pink-gold Vacheron Constantin Overseas with a green lacquer dial comes with 3 interchangeable straps, price is yet to be confirmed. For more information visit vacheron-constantin.com.