While it took a little time to arrive this year, spring is finally on our doorstep, and that means only one thing – it’s auction season. Although we haven’t fully experienced spring weather here in the UK, the first Watches of Knightsbridge auction is here. After a four-year hiatus, the auction will be in-person once again. We recently visited their South Kensington offices to preview a select few pieces from their upcoming auction, which has been scheduled for the slightly later date of June 1st. As usual, we picked out a few of our favourite lots and are excited to share our thoughts on them.
CARTIER PARIS CRISTALLOR
Lot 13: To think about the wristwatch and not mention Cartier is impossible. After all, it was Louis Cartier who revolutionized the watch industry and commercialized the wristwatch. Following the successful launch of the Santos-Dumont in 1911, Louis Cartier embarked on a quest to create another wristwatch. In 1917, the world first laid eyes on the Cartier Tank, one of the most iconic designs in the watch world. The shape of the Tank was inspired by the armoured vehicles that proved essential during World War I. It is incredible that such an industrial inspiration led to such an elegant design, which remains timeless 99 years later. Cartier continued to create amazing wristwatches, but one that has caught our attention in recent years is the Cristallor, featuring an elongated stepped octagonal case.
Modern watch wearers may note that vintage Tanks can be a bit small, but the Cristallor is not only elegant but also quite a decent size. This 1970s piece is one of the rarest and most sought-after models, alongside the Bamboo Coussin. Cartier made fewer than 10% of their watches in white gold compared to yellow, making this example even rarer. It also has remarkable Middle Eastern provenance, as it was a special order by King Hussein of Jordan, featuring a stunning case back engraving in Arabic script and the Jordanian Royal Crest. Furthermore, this specific example was featured in the White Cartier Bianco book, adding to its already impressive provenance.
The present 1970s example from Cartier Paris is extremely well-preserved, with a well-proportioned case, crisp case numbers, and its original deployant buckle. Crisp Paris hallmarks are found inside the case and throughout the buckle. Before becoming a unified brand, Cartier operated with separate boutiques in London, Paris, and New York, and timepieces from this period are highly sought after by collectors for their iconic designs and their place in the history of horology.
Estimate: £20,000 – £30,000
ROLEX 3-6-9 SUBMARINER
Lot 129: There is no denying that the Submariner is the ultimate tool watch, and while we’ve looked at quite a few, there are some varying combinations, and this particular variation is one of the most coveted by collectors and Rolex aficionados. This Submariner 5513/5512 features what is known as the 3-6-9 dial, which was one of the options given to the original purchaser of a Submariner when ordering. These dials are also referred to as Explorer-style dials for obvious reasons. Very few Submariner references were fitted with these 3-6-9 dials, such as the 6538, 6200, 5510, and of course, the 5513.
This present 5513/5512 dates to circa 1962 when this reference was first introduced, but of course, this isn’t your run-of-the-mill 5513, which makes it highly coveted. You’ll notice the depth rating is somewhat different from the standard meters first. The “M” is absent, and “FT” (feet) is written in a different font. Moreover, this 5513 features an exclamation point at 6 o’clock, and the dial has aged, giving it a stardust-like patination. It also has pointed crown guards, another detail aficionados will appreciate, as well as its original bezel, which has faded slightly, adding more character. Though it appears that early in its ownership, the bracelet was changed for a comfortable USA JB Champion Rolex Jubilee bracelet, which, I may add, looks rather fetching.
In addition to the above, this lot is accompanied by its original receipt from the day of purchase, showing it was bought for £67.10. And if that wasn’t enough, the watch has been kept in the family of the original owner and is fresh to the market. But there’s more. Not very often do examples like this come to market, and this one comes with some rather interesting provenance. This piece was owned by First Assistant Film Director Patrick Clayton, who worked predominantly in film over a career spanning six decades. Patrick Clayton’s work as third and second AD went mostly uncredited, including on films like Oliver! and Where Eagles Dare, with his first named credit coming with his 17th film, The Syndicate. He was then credited as first AD or AD for Twins of Evil, Mad Max 2: The Road Warrior, and many other films throughout the decades. He also worked as a production manager with credits on Those Magnificent Men in Their Flying Machines, The Keep, and 1492: Conquest of Paradise. It’s fair to say this watch has lived quite the life, and I’m sure if it could talk, it would have an interesting story to tell.
Estimate: £50,000 – £80,000
The Watches of Knightsbridge auction will take place on the 1st June 2024 at 2pm BST, to review the full catalogue visit watchesofknightsbridge.com.
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