While it took a little time to arrive this year, spring is finally on our doorstep and that means only one thing – it’s auction season. While we’ve yet to feel the full spring weather, the first Watches of Knightsbridge auction is here. We recently spent some time over at their South Kensington offices to have a look a select few pieces in this month’s upcoming May auction on the 20th. As per usual we decided to pick out a few of our favourites lots and share our thoughts on them.
ROLEX DAY-DATE
Lot 15: The Day-Date is without doubt one of Rolex most diverse wristwatches and has been nicknamed The Presidential Rolex, quite simply because it has been donned by various Presidents throughout the decades. Made from either yellow, white or pink gold – the Day-Date has been a cornerstone of Rolex catalogues for over 60-years (you can see our little write-up on the 60th anniversary piece right here).
Ever glamorous and luxurious, the Day-Date model delights with its myriad of dial, bracelet, bezel and gold-finished designs. Rolex have elevated Day-Date models with materials such as rubellite, blood stone, coral, and even fossil, providing an unusual design twist to the iconic model.
This special piece has been encased in yellow gold, the present Rolex Day-Date ref. 18048 from circa 1989, features an attractive and desirable champagne gold dial matching the gold President bracelet. The dial is further enhanced with ruby and diamond-set indexes while the bezel of the watch is highlighted with 44 brilliant-cut diamonds. The Rolex Day-Date ref. 18048 was in production from the late 1970’s to the late 1980’s. Furthermore, this example exhibits tarnish – likely denoting that is unpolished and more evidence of this is also on display as the case back still retains its original Rolex reference sticker.
Estimate: £15,000 – 20,000
CARTIER TANK NORMALE
Lot 60: To think about the wristwatch and not mention Cartier is impossible, after all, it was Louis Cartier who revolutionised the watch industry and commercialised the wristwatch. After the successful launch of the Santos-Dumont in 1911, Louis Cartier embarked upon a quest to create another wristwatch. It was in 1917, that the world first laid eyes on the Cartier Tank, one of the most iconic designs in the watch world. The shape of the Tank was inspired by the armoured vehicles that proved essential during World War I. I think it is rather incredible that such an industrial inspiration led to such an elegant design, which remains timeless 99 years later. Cartier offered many variations of the Tank, and I have something of a soft spot for the rarer versions, such as this Paris Tank Normale.
At this year’s Watches & Wonders, Cartier reintroduced the world to the Tank Normale, with no less than 5 new versions in various configurations in platinum and gold. Of course, the watch has been upsized from its original form but more importantly, it’s likely to be nigh on impossible to get your hands on one – depending on your relationship with Cartier…?
The modern watch wearer will of course note that vintage Tanks can be a bit on the small size, and there is no doubt that this piece will wear quite small, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in pure elegance. The present 1980s example from Cartier Paris is extremely well-preserved, with a well-proportioned case, and crisp case numbers, and fitted with its original deployant buckle. Crisp Paris hallmarks are found on the inside of the case and throughout the buckle. Before becoming a unified brand, Cartier operated with separate boutiques in London, Paris and New York and timepieces from this period are highly sought after by collectors both for their iconic designs as well as their place in the history of horology.
Estimate: £5,000 – 6,000
ROLEX EXPLORER
Lot 125: It feels like over the past few years, Rolex have been paying the Explorer a little more attention, in 2021 they re-introduced the 36mm Explorer and just a few weeks ago introduced a 40mm version of it as well. The Rolex Explorer 1016 has always been something of an icon in the watch world and while it has never garnered the attention as some of the brands big hitters, such as the Submariner, GMT, and Daytona – it has always remained a favourite amongst collectors. The no nonsense 3-6-9 dial layout perhaps lends to its simplistic nature and by virtue makes it a little more incognito. That said, it is likely the reason why it remained hardly unchanged for nearly 30 years. As you’ll likely know from my in-depth article on the 1016, I am a massive fan of the Explorer.
This circa 1981 Rolex Explorer ref. 1016 has a matte black dial with applied luminous markers, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals and Mercedes hands. The lume on the dial has patinated to a subtle warm cream hue. Inside this Explorer ref 1016 is the 26-jewelled automatic calibre 1570 movement, signed Montres Rolex S.A. The case excellently preserved and furthermore, the watch is accompanied by its original box and punched paperwork.
Estimate: £14,000 – 16,000
The Watches of Knightsbridge auction will take place on the 20th May 2023 at 14:00 BST, to review the full catalogue visit watchesofknightsbridge.com.
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