The November auction serves as Watches of Knightsbridge’s final auction of the year, although it doesn’t feel like that long ago, we were looking through their first 2024 catalogue. Naturally, we find ourselves drawn to highlight some of our favourite pieces from their upcoming auction. In typical fashion, we’ve handpicked some standout lots and are excited to share our insights on these exceptional pieces.
CARTIER SANTOS CARRÉE ROYAL OMANI KHANJAR
Lot 24: The Cartier Santos was first introduced in 1911, designed by Louis Cartier himself for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Santos-Dumont needed a way to check the time mid-flight without the inconvenience of handling a pocket watch, leading Cartier to create what became both the first men’s wristwatch and the first pilot’s wristwatch. Though it was the rise of trench watches during World War I that popularized wristwatches over pocket watches, the Cartier Santos predates this trend, originally designed for Santos-Dumont in 1904 and released more widely by Cartier in 1911.
In the 1970s, as the popularity of steel sports watches surged, Cartier sought to offer its own take on the style by revamping the half-century-old Santos. The new Santos de Cartier featured a riveted bi-metal bracelet and bezel, combining 18K yellow gold with stainless steel for an appealing and affordable mixed-metal look. This design captured the attention of watch enthusiasts throughout the 1980s, cementing its status as a staple in Cartier’s lineup. Although the model was discontinued in 2016, it made a welcome comeback in 2018 with a sleeker case size and updated design for modern tastes.
A unique blend of sporty functionality, reminiscent of pieces by Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet (Nautilus and Royal Oak respectively), the elegance of this Cartier Santos Carrée is arguably just as alluring. This lot represents one half of a special order of his & her timepieces that comes with provenance. Special order with burgundy dials and royal Omani Khanjar crest, commissioned and presented by HH Sultan Qaboos Bin Said of Oman to the original owners (whilst the husband was serving as defence attaché in muscat), the watch was worn on the occasion of a royal visit by HH Prince and Princess of Wales to Oman in 1986, the watches are accompanied by their original cartier boxes with royal Omani Khanjar crest embossed, consigned by the family of the original owners.
Estimate: £10,000 – £20,000
CARTIER LONDON OCTAGONAL
Lot 26: Cartier London watches generally considered the top tier of vintage Cartier. This is for their unique designs and rarity. Jean-Jacques Cartier & Rupert Emmerson are credited for the bold designs. Created by the Cartier London artisan is iconic timepiece such as the Crash, the Losange, the Oval and this example: the Octagonal. The Cartier Octagonal differs greatly from the Crash or Pebble, which features curved cases; the Crash being a somewhat more elaborate. This 1976 large Octagonal Cartier, like its names suggests features an 18-carat yellow-gold case with 8 equal sides with Cartier’s signature gold crown with a sapphire at 3 o’clock. Like most London models, the signature Cartier dials were reworked and in wanting to create a simpler layout, the chemin de fer (railway) chapter rings were abandoned. However, like the Baignoire, Pebble, Oval, Oval Maxi and Crash, the use of Roman numerals were retained. Again, like many special Cartier pieces such as this, it is important to mention that these models were produced in very small quantities.
This example is one of only six pieces known to the collector community. This watch was originally owned by William Haines, famous silent actor and then interior designer in Hollywood. The watch has been consigned by family of the original owner. It’s important to note the originality of the timepiece; the case features number 9045 which is stamped on the case back. Furthermore, there are London hallmarks on the inside of the watch, as well as the “JC” stamp for Jacques Cartier. And like many of the Cartier London pieces created during this period, at the heart of this Octagonal is the manual-wind Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre P838.
Estimate: £40,000 – 80,000
IWC MARK 11 BRITISH RAF “WHITE 12”
Lot 169: The IWC Mark XI is the descendent of the Mark X, which made up part of the twelve watches that met the MoD’s specifications that was also known as the dirty dozen. The IWC Mk XI is considered by many collectors to be one of the finest military watches ever produced and rightly so. The test these timepieces were put through to be deemed fit for service, so to speak, was quite demanding. These watches need to be highly accurate, with hacking seconds and be protected from magnetic interference, as well as waterproof and not forgetting have a highly visible dial. The Mark XI met all these requirements and had to be rigorously tested for days on end.
This IWC Mark XI features a black matte dial, with Arabic numerals and tritium luminous markers, alongside the all-important military arrow, just beneath the logo. However, what makes this example extremely rare is the omission of a triangle at 12 o’clock and instead the number 12. Inside is the manual wind, hacking seconds, famed caliber 89. The 36mm case features fixed bars and on the case back it’s issue markings (6B/346 1213/48).
Estimate: £8,000 – £12,000 The Watches of Knightsbridge auction will take place on the 23rd November at 14:00 BST, to review the full catalogue visit watchesofknightsbridge.com.
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